Eleven-year-old Tucker needs an incentive to stop exploring and get back in the car.
(Photo provided)
The Dog Charmer by Tom Shelby
Labradoodle Needs Help Ending Walks
Dear Tom,
We take our 11-year-old Labradoodle, Tucker, on daily off-leash walks through the woods. He gambols off, runs back periodically to check on us, then eventually, energy depleted, walks back with us. Lately, regardless of where we are, he falls behind us to sniff and explore for the last hundred feet to the parking lot, then slowly circumnavigates the parking lot and surrounding woods, deliberately ignoring us and the commands he usually obeys, until he’s completed his exploration.
How can we get him to revert to his old behavior of obeying the command “car” and jumping in?
Susan
Dear Susan,
As it is with most people, wisdom comes from age. And so it is with our four legged family members. At age 11, Tucker has the equivalent wisdom of a 70-year-old person, and is totally aware of when the fun and interesting walk is coming to an end. He’s also aware that there are no real negative consequences to his ignoring you and elongating his pleasure of “reading” the environment with his nose.
He “sees” more with his nose than most people see with their eyes. He knows the age, sex and health of the dog that recently peed on a bush. The rabbit pellets tell him how recently the rabbit visited and in which direction it went. The battleground where a small army of ants dispatched a cricket is engrossing.
So what is going to be more compelling than the fascinating environment? Answer—MEAT. As you’re nearing the end of the walk, call Tucker to come, and when he arrives reward him with a piece of hot dog. Then have him follow you, with another hot dog piece in your hand, which he gets the moment after hopping into the car.
Give Tucker a kiss for me.
Dog Charmer Tom
Hello Tom,
I am an 11-and-a-half-year-old Morkie. I was 10 years old when adopted and had been a puppy mill brooding bitch.
I go to my mom and sit on her lap or beside her for some petting or brushing. (Both of these things I have learned to enjoy.)
There is another human in my immediate family named Jessica and I “tolerate” her minimal needs to touch me because she also walks me and she feeds me my evening meal each day. I have learned which humans have delicious treats and will take a treat from them “as long as they don’t try to touch me.”
Is there something my mom can do to help me get used to other humans and not be so wary of them, especially since they are always asking to touch me?
Thank you, Tom, for your time.
Sincerely,
Penny
Dear Penny and family,
Family—the secret here is “really special treats” and patience. Penny already acknowledged that she knows the pleasure of being touched and snuggled and brushed. It’s likely that she’s never been “socialized,” so strange people are really scary! The only time, and I mean the only time, that she gets those special treats (hot dog, baloney, chicken, whatever meat) is when there’s going to be interaction with non-family.
Penny—every non-family person you meet is going to offer you a delicious piece of meat that nobody else will. Perhaps you know the Italian expression, “Nothin’ fa nothin’.” To savor that meat, you have to tolerate two to eight seconds of being lightly petted or stroked by the person giving you that special treat. You will learn that people are not so bad and will start to like being touched, especially because it’s the only time there’s that wonderful meat!
Family—when giving the “special treats” to friends to give to Penny, ask the friends when offering the treats that they not face Penny directly, but rather at a 45-degree angle, and stooping if possible. The petting should be soft and accompanied by soft words as Penny is literally chewing.
Be patient and good luck.
Dog Charmer Tom
Hello Tom.
My name is Moose. I am a toy fox terrier/French bulldog mix. I will be turning six years old this year. I go from a calm dog in the house to a bouncing, barking, out-of-control dog at the site of a squirrel, bird, cat, or car. And if someone knocks on the house door, I am at the door bouncing and barking. All my behaviors are impulsive, startling and LOUD. My human care providers are at their wits ends trying to settle me during these times. Could you please outline for them the process we need to do together to help me have some self-control? Thank you for your time.
Moose
Dear Moose c/o Holly,
These are two distinct and separate issues. The first one involves overriding Moose’s predatory aggression, chasing the animals he sees as opposed to ignoring them and coming to you at your command. Start with a powerful, outdoor, off-leash recall. Do that by calling him to come multiple times, and when he arrives he gets a piece of hot dog or chicken (people food) as a reward. At no other time does he get people food.
Next comes the “leave it” command. The picture shows that Moose is wearing an e-collar. Plan ahead and place a piece of ham or baloney or something comparable on the lawn when Moose is in the house. Then take Moose out and let him hear, “Leave it,” immediately followed by the use of the e-collar as he closes in on the temptation food. Seeing the e-collar on Moose, I’ve assumed you know what it takes to stop Moose in his tracks without overdoing it, be it tone, vibration, or electric stimulation. The moment after he is stopped with the leave it command, he should be called to come and rewarded with people food when he arrives. If you’re not confident with the use of the e-collar, I’d strongly suggest we get together and let me determine its best use.
As for Moose’s response at the door, it’s his territorial response as opposed to his predatory response that’s out of control. Moose has to be taught to go to a SPOT within sight of the door, sit or lie down, and stay until he’s released after the guest enters.
Holly, it starts with you knocking on the door from inside the house. Moose will still respond as though someone knocked from outside and get loud and hyper. You then lure him to the SPOT with a favorite treat and tell him to sit and stay (assuming he knows to sit and stay) and pretend to let the imaginary guest in. Once the “guest” is in, Moose is released with a word and told to come forward and given his treat for being polite.
When you can accomplish his staying on his SPOT as you open and close the door for Mr. Imaginary, you ratchet up the distraction to his cooperation at the door with a family member actually on the other side of the entrance.
Holly, overcoming “predatory aggression” and “territoriality” are truly two of the more difficult lessons to accomplish, and require real patience and persistence. Please don’t hesitate to reach out for some assistance.
Good luck,
Dog Charmer Tom
Tom’s book, “Dog Training Diaries,” was judged one of the three best training books by Dog Writer’s Association of America.
